Hokkaido in the summer is Japan's best-kept secret. Rent a car and follow our guide through lavender fields, alpine passes, and sulfur springs.

JPN Path
Editorial TeamDriving north out of Sapporo in early July, the landscape changes in stages. First the suburbs thin out into flat residential sprawl, then the flat sprawl gives way to gentle agricultural land, and then — somewhere past Asahikawa — Hokkaido simply opens up. The road ahead stretches to a vanishing point without a bend, flanked by fields of corn and sunflowers, and the sky above feels three times larger than anywhere else in Japan. This is the moment you understand why a Hokkaido road trip belongs in a different category from every other thing you can do in the country.
Hokkaido is Japan's northernmost main island and its wildest. Its summers are cool, dry, and achingly beautiful. While Tokyo bakes at 35 degrees in August, central Hokkaido sits at a comfortable 22. There are no crowds at the lavender farms at 7 AM. The mountain passes are empty on weekday mornings. The self-serve soba restaurants in small farming towns have plastic models of every dish in the window and no English menu, and the food is extraordinary. This is the guide to doing it right.
Where to Drive and What to Find
Furano and the Lavender Fields of Farm Tomita
Peak bloom is mid-July, and during that window, the rolling hills of Furano turn into a quilt of purple, pink, white, and yellow — lavender, lavender mix, and poppy fields side by side in a landscape that feels almost artificially beautiful. Farm Tomita is the most celebrated of the farms and free to enter; arrive before 8 AM to walk the fields in quiet before the tour coaches begin their runs from Sapporo. The farm shop sells fresh lavender soft serve ice cream, lavender-infused biscuits, and small sachets of dried lavender. Buy the ice cream immediately. Even outside of peak bloom, the farm remains open and the surrounding countryside is scenic enough to justify the drive.
Biei's Blue Pond (Aoiike) — One of Japan's Most Surreal Sights
Located 20 minutes from Furano in the quietly charming town of Biei, the Blue Pond is exactly as extraordinary as the photographs suggest, which is rare. The water's distinctive cyan-turquoise colour comes from naturally occurring aluminium hydroxide particles that scatter light across the blue spectrum. Dead silver birch trees stand in the shallows like sculptures, and on still mornings the whole scene reflects perfectly on the surface. It became briefly famous internationally when Apple used a photograph of it as a default Mac OS X wallpaper. Visit at dawn or dusk when the light is low and the colour deepens. The site is free to enter and open year-round, though it is most spectacular in summer when green vegetation frames the blue.
Shirogane Onsen — Soak After the Drive
The Shirogane hot spring resort area sits just a few kilometres from the Blue Pond, tucked into a forested river valley. Several ryokan (traditional inns) here offer day-use access to their outdoor hot spring baths (rotenburo) for around 700–1,000 JPY without an overnight booking. Soaking in mineral-rich water while surrounded by Hokkaido cedar forest in the late afternoon, after a full day of driving through lavender fields and standing at impossible blue ponds, is the kind of experience that makes you reconsider every other holiday you have ever taken.
Daisetsuzan National Park — Japan at Its Most Wild
Covering over 230,000 hectares, Daisetsuzan is Japan's largest national park and one of its most pristine. The Asahidake Ropeway whisks you from the trailhead village of Asahidake Onsen to an altitude of 1,600 metres in ten minutes, emerging into an alpine landscape of volcanic fumaroles, boulder fields, and meadows of mountain wildflowers that bloom from late June through August. The crater rim hike takes two to three hours and involves genuine scrambling over uneven volcanic rock. This is not a manicured park walk — wear proper hiking footwear, carry water, and check weather conditions before departure. On clear days the views across the Hokkaido interior are vast and uninterrupted. In early summer, patches of snow still lie in the shadowed gullies alongside fresh wildflowers.
Otaru — The Canal City Worth Ending On
Drive two hours west of Sapporo to close the loop at Otaru, a handsome port city that flourished as a financial hub during Hokkaido's 19th-century development boom. The stone warehouses along its central canal have been converted into restaurants and glass workshops, and the gaslit towpath along the water is one of the most photogenic streets in Japan. Otaru is famous for its glassblowing tradition — dozens of workshops produce hand-blown pieces ranging from small ornaments to elaborate art pieces — and for its sushi, which rivals anything in Tokyo because of the direct access to Hokkaido's cold-water seafood. Eat at a counter restaurant near Otaru Station and order whatever seasonal catch the chef recommends. The sea urchin (uni) from Hokkaido's waters in summer is among the finest in the world.
Practical Notes for the Drive
Rent your car in Sapporo at least two weeks in advance during July and August, as summer demand is high. An International Driving Permit is required — obtain one from your national motoring authority before departure. Hokkaido drives on the left, road signs use standard international pictograms alongside Japanese text, and roads are wide and well-maintained. The critical thing to know: petrol stations become scarce once you leave main towns. Never let your tank drop below a quarter when driving through the central interior. Download an offline copy of Google Maps before you depart, as mobile signal drops out on mountain roads. Budget five to seven days for a comfortable loop covering Furano, Biei, Asahidake, and Otaru — this is a route that rewards staying a night in each location rather than trying to cover everything in a single long day.
“To walk in Japan is to understand that paths are not merely for transportation — they are a spiritual connection to history, soil, and a hospitality unlike anywhere else on earth.”
Ready to start planning? Use our Itinerary Builder to craft a personal route built around your exact timeline, interests, and budget — one that takes you off the well-worn path.

About JPN Path
Editorial TeamThe JPN Path Editorial Team consists of local travel curators, cultural historians, and writers dedicated to sharing authentic, practical, and highly detailed guides for exploring Japan.